Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Tonic Tee in Cotton/Lycra Knit

Here is my second Tonic Tee by SBCC Patterns! I love this peachy Art Gallery cotton/lycra solid.  It's been sitting in my stash for about a year so I was glad to finally cut this t-shirt out.  I cut out a straight size small with a little length added to the bottom hem and some length taken off the sleeves.


I wanted to make a faux button placket by the shoulder.  I'm not sure that's even what you call it...but this was my inspiration photo:

from loft.com
It took some math and some drafting (I took a look at my drafting book) but eventually I got it to look like this:


The placket replaces the shoulder seam, just for the left side of the shirt.  I used some buttons from Hobby Lobby and I decided to topstitch with white thread instead of trying to match this specific color of peach.  I added a larger seam allowance to the neckline so I could fold it over and stitch it.  I used some fusible tape to keep it in place while I coverstitched it.  Hopefully the neckline washes up nicely!


My only complaint with the fit is that the armscye is to high and is cutting me under the arm.  And now that I can see it in the photos, it's really bugging me!  I did not have this problem when I made my first Tonic Tee.  Maybe I did a slightly smaller seam allowance? I can't remember...or maybe the DBP just behaved a lot differently than this cotton/lycra.

Can anyone tell me how to fix it? I'm wondering if I just need to size up in the sleeves.  This would make the armscye lower so it would not be digging under my arms.

Kind of a shame this happened with such a nice top! Do you think I could cut out bigger sleeves, lower the armscye and salvage this one?

Monday, February 20, 2017

Ficus Cardigan ~ Sew Like My Mom

Today I want to show you the peplum cardigan I tested for Sew Like My Mom, the Ficus Cardigan.  This is the womens' version of the Fern Cardigan that I tested a few weeks ago.  This pattern has a wide range of sizes, from XXS to 3XL.  You can purchase the Fern and the Ficus bundle here.


I used a poly/rayon/lycra (mostly polyester) french terry from LA Finch Fabrics.  This was my first time purchasing from Josephine.  She had fast, friendly shipping!  She even rushed to get my order done because she knew I needed it to test this cardigan!  Thank you!


This fabric has 40% stretch widthwise, and 10% stretch lengthwise.  It is very soft and is nice and thin.  That's important to me in Charleston, where winter lasts like 8 seconds.  

I first made a muslin and tested for the small size (according to my bust), but I didn't like how baggy it was, so Melissa let me size down.  This final black cardi is an XS with adjustments made for my narrow shoulders and my short height.  I think if I were to make this cardigan again, I would size the waist down to an XXS.  I just prefer my garments to be form fitting and to give me a waist!  (Of course, if I used the tie that comes with the pattern, that would give me a waist, too.)


I found this to be an easy sew, especially because I had just made one in Serenity's size.  I made this completely on my serger/coverstitch machine because my sewing machine was in the shop.


Thank you, Melissa, for letting me test!  These are our first ever Mommy and Me outfits!


Sunday, February 12, 2017

Tonic Tee ~ SBCC Patterns

I finally made my very own Tonic Tee by SBCC Patterns!    I got my hands on one of Betsy's patterns nearly 4 years ago, the Cosmo Maxi Skirt.  I love that Betsy designs specifically for petites.  (She explains how to lengthen her patterns if you are of average or above average height.)  


I decided to use this pattern because I decided my TNT t-shirt pattern wasn't really working for me and I was ready to try something new, and hopefully get a better fit.


The Tonic Tee is a free PDF pattern available on the SBCC website.  The only change I made to the pattern was to bring the neckline up slightly in the front.  I used a double brushed poly knit from Allielane in Abbyville.  (I recently made my mom a blouse with the same fabric...but I have even more red roses in my stash!)


I rarely find a pattern I don't have to alter extensively.  I am really happy with the fit of this garment.  Other than the bottom hem being slightly too short (like only 1/2") for my liking, this top fits wonderfully!  I did cut the neckband too long so it gapes a bit.  However, I'm the only one who will notice this, so I probably won't change it.

This is Dede the bulldog, my gordita!  We've had her for 2 years and she is my buddy!

Saturday, February 4, 2017

Lane Raglan with a Cowl

This Lane Raglan is not for me, it's for my mom.  I had to put it on before I shipped it off to her this week.  I absolutely love this print!  


It's a double brushed poly that I have seen from a number of shops this winter, but I purchased it from Allielane in Abbyville.  I think DBP is popular with sewists because of its low price and it's also super soft and warm for the winter.  I don't wear it as a rule because South Carolina is a sweaty swamp, but I make an exception for winter.  And winter here lasts like 2 months, tops.  My coworker found pollen on her car this morning, so I know spring is coming STAT!


When I made this cowl I had no idea what I was doing.  I made the collar out of two trapezoids, the angled sides sewn together into a tube and the shorter sizes attached to the collar.  I found out afterwards that I could have just sewn a rectangle into a tube the width of the neckband.  Oh well, maybe my mom will never notice the extra seam.  It turned out really cute, anyhow.  I made it 12" tall (folded).  I think a cowl any taller would overwhelm her petite figure.  She is, after all, 4" shorter than me!

I also love how the cowl looks with my red bomber jacket.  Isn't that slick?  The lighting's kind of sucky in the last photo.  What idiot decided to cut back my neighbor's pine tree branches?! Don't they know I need those there to soften the late afternoon light? Like, that's way more important than keeping them out of power lines.


Have I mentioned how versatile the Lane Raglan pattern is? Like, you seriously need this in your life.  And I'm probably going to keep posting about them and you are going to keep being sad that you don't have it, so you should just order it now, lol!

Fern Cardigan ~ Sew Like My Mom

This past week I pattern tested for this adorable sweater, the Fern Cardigan, by Sew Like My Mom.  Melissa's pattern ranges from 12 months to girls' size 16.  She also sells the pattern for a lower price for a fewer range of sizes.  This pattern has different sleeve options and can be worn with or without the tie.


This pattern is seriously a breeze to whip up! I just got my coverstitch/serger back from the shop and had to take my sewing machine in. Waaaaa!!! Such torture...I want them back together again!  So I constructed this entirely on my coverstitch/serger machine.  


The pattern calls for any knit with 30% stretch.  A ponte or double knit would work well with this pattern, but jerseys with more stretch work great, too!  I used a cotton/lycra from Raspberry Creek Fabrics with about 50% stretch.  (The fabric is no longer available - RCF is actually changing their CLUB fabrics from screen printed to being digitally printed in house.  I'm excited to see their first round of new fabrics!) I'm really glad I chose a stretchier fabric because Serenity is at the top of the chest measurement for the 18 month size.  She will have a few months, at least, of wear in this cardigan before it is too small.




As you can see in the photos, we found out in testing that the sleeves were a little too tapered from the elbow to the wrist.  That has been fixed for the final pattern.  I made my ties 2" longer than the pattern called for, just personal preference.  The length was perfect on her.


I previously made a dress for Serenity out of this fabric, but it remains un-blogged because the designer I was testing for never released the pattern and has since closed her shop.  I love the way the cardigan looks in this fabric even better than the dress, however.  


Can you see the Ravenell Bridge in the corner? We took these pictures at Mount Pleasant Waterfront Park.  Please note: pansies were harmed in this photoshoot.  Ripping their flowers off is just par for the course.  They'll be fine. Anyway, it will just encourage them to grow their leaves a little bigger before they bloom again.

These are Cici's first pictures in big girl jeans.  I think I might cry, she looks so big!  I love this crazy little chatterbox!