Monday, September 1, 2014

Vogue 1395 Rayon Challis Dress

I love cute floral prints!


They are really hard to find.  It took me three visits to Five Eighth Seams to take this fabric home with me. When I find a bold floral I like, I'm scared that after I buy it, I will realize that it is obviously mumu material.

This is a Joel Dewberry print called "Bungalow Dahlia Lavender". I <3 rayon challis!


But let me tell you about this pattern...we have a love/hate relationship.  I love the design but the pattern instructions are awful!  (This is one of the first designer Vogue patterns I've actually finished.  It's too bad their instructions are not more straightforward.)

The pictures were confusing and the instructions on how to insert the bias bound neckline didn't say how deep to make the seam.  Usually, that means a 5/8" seam allowance, but given the already narrow strip of binding, I knew that couldn't be right.  I didn't use the pattern for the bias tape.  Since I had made alterations to the neckline, I found it easier to just cut a long strip 1 1/4" wide on the bias, fold it in half, and sew the neckline seam at 1/8".  Because my seam was tiny, I didn't have to trim any off before I folded it and under-stitched.  When making a bias bound neckline, you want to stretch your bias fabric just a teensy bit as you sew it into the curve.  This ensures that it will lie flat.

I used my serger to insert the waist elastic.  I find that Vogue patterns waists fit me at a perfect spot (I'm short-waisted).

Because of the curves, I did not use my rolled hemmer foot (this is my most popular tute). I learned how to make a very precise, professional-looking rolled hem on the curves with this awesome tutorial.  I recommend using the second method for slippery fabrics like rayon challis and satin.


Pattern Alterations: Small Bust Adjustment, brought the neckline up and in at the shoulders, added length to the sleeves, brought the armscye up a bunch (other people complained the armholes were super gapey), took some width out of the center back (people complained it was gapey as well).

So glad this project turned out nicely!  I wish I'd made this at the beginning of summer.



This is actually the first really satisfying project I've finished in months.  It's a real confidence booster!

In other news, it is super, duper comfy.

If you're planning on making this dress good luck!  Let me know if you get stuck.

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