Monday, July 8, 2013

How to Hem Knit Fabrics with Design Plus

A few weeks ago I went to my local independent apparel fabric store and found this amazing sewing notion, Design Plus:

As you can see by reading the packaging, this product has many uses.  I will show you how to use it to hem jersey knit fabric.  In the Craftsy class 'Sewing with Knits: Five Wardrobe Essentials', Meg recommended using fusible tricot on a spool, 1/4" wide, to aid in hemming knit fabrics.  The problem with this product is that it adds bulk and may not stretch as much as the fabric.  I couldn't actually find the tricot, so it is just as well.

Instead I found 'Design Plus' which is great for controlling knit hems.  It is basically paper-backed fusible web cut into a 1/4" strip.  It is around $11, but there are 27 yards on a roll, so it will last you FOREVER!

I tried this out and it worked like a charm!


Place the fusible side of the strip against the wrong side of your hem edge and press it with a dry iron.  I used a cotton/lycra blend so I put the iron setting on cotton.  If you have a curved edge like I did for this project, you can press 6-8" strips of fusible web. 

Peel off the paper backing and fold your hem over to the desired width.  Press the hem with steam. The hem is now fused in place.

From there, I used my double needle to stitch the hem all the way around.  Sewing the hem on the edge goes so quickly because I am not having to pull out pins along the way.  My hem stays exactly in place where I fused it together.  It looks professional, and I didn't even use a walking foot!


  1. What a great tip and how very clever! Off to check out a few of my local sewing stores for something similar...

  2. I have used Steam a Seam that comes in 1/2 inch 1/4 inch rolls the same way. It sure works well to stabilize the hem. Then one can stitch with a double needle and get a "cover-hem" look to the garment.


Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I love reading them!