Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Full Seat Adjustment

I had to drop my sewing machine off at the hospital. Hopefully she'll feel better in a few weeks and can come home with me to have more fun. First, she needs to stop turning off when I'm stitching and I need to contemplate all the needles that I break.  Especially the ones that force pins down into the machine because I know that I know better.  Those ones make me cringe.

Since I'm not working on any projects right now, I wanted to impart some knowledge that I obtained at the Rocky Mountain Sew Expo last month.  If you remember this...

The back of my first shorts muslin didn't turn out so well.  As you can see, there are diagonal wrinkles below my derriere, which means I needed a Full Seat Adjustment a.k.a. I Have Junk in My Trunk Adjustment.

I simply drew a line from the sharpest part of the curve (at center back) to the side seam.  I cut TO the side seam, not THROUGH it.  That way, I created a hinge so I could pull the top of the pattern out to create more space.  I've created a big gap for this example (in light blue), but you may want to try this 1/4" at a time and muslin it for fit.


  1. I'm going to do that right this minute to every pants pattern I own.

    "Full seat adjustment" is so much nicer than "big butt" but not nearly as nice as "curvaceous."

    Patterns are rarely sized for reality. They are a suggestion. Don't put yourself down because you are not average. You're not average! Yippee!

  2. I like to think of it as an adjustment to accomodate my 'bodacious booty'. :-)

  3. This is awesome! I've been struggling with this for so long and trying to make adjustments in the wrong spots. This is a great display.

  4. How do I mark the new grainline?

    1. Use the grainline on the pant leg and extend it up to the seat area.


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