In my previous post, I unveiled my 2012 Halloween Costume. Now I will review the corset pattern I used for my Christine Daae look.
McCall's 6343 - Lined Corset
I used a red, costume satin from Joann's with a 40% off coupon and my military discount. The pattern told me to line it, underline it and interface it. I thought it was a little bit overkill, especially since I will be wearing a shirt underneath the corset and am not needing this corset to literally 'hold me in'. Therefore, I didn't underline it.
Petite Alterations / SBA
This pattern has different pieces for A/B, C and D bust sizes. The A/B cup was too big, so I shaved a bit off the center front's busty area to compensate and it fits perfectly. The next time I make it, I will probably cut of the top and have the corset cover only my torso. I did have to shorten the torso of the pattern to make it petite. If you mess with the torso, make sure to reposition the eyelet placement.
I opted to bone only the two seams in the front of the bodice. I wanted the boning to stiffen out the bust, but not add bulk to the sides. This didn't end up working too well once I laced it up so I added in the rest of the recommended boning.
Cheap Satin is a Beast!
Those of you who have sewn with satin know that it is no cake walk. I serged the edges of most of the pattern pieces just after cutting out because I was suspicious of how quickly the edges would fray. The serger ended up eating some of the edges so I had to make do with Fray-Check. The satin was finicky and produced some runs after I sewed seams (with a sharp needle) but it's just a costume so I didn't fret.
I pieced the corset front together with the interfacing attached, then sewed my lining, right sides together. Because this will be one of the first reviews of this pattern, I want to stress that when you complete this step, do not just leave a little hole so you can turn the whole thing out (as the pattern suggests). Instead, leave a hole twice as big on the bottom and avoid literally fighting to get the fabric with the boning turned right sides out.
I added some trim to the top all the way around, then attached my back band with eyelets. The eyelets weren't hard to put on, just time-consuming. I don't like that Dritz sells them in packs of 12 and I needed 16, so I had to buy a second pack. The sandwiched fabric between the eyelets frayed after I had worn it a few times, causing some eyelets to fall off. I had to make a patch and replace 2 eyelets. I fray checked the rest but I don't know how long it will hold. Conclusion: the back band needs to be thicker in order not to budge between the eyelets. I would underline and interface the back band next time to make it thicker.
Most of the problems I had with this project had to do with the satin being difficult to work with. The other problems occurred because I didn't underline the corset. Overall, I'm very pleased with the finished product. The fit, especially around the bust is perfect. I will use this pattern again the next time I make a corset.