Thursday, October 18, 2012

McCall's 6343 - Lined Corset

In my previous post, I unveiled my 2012 Halloween Costume.  Now I will review the corset pattern I used for my Christine Daae look.

McCall's 6343 - Lined Corset

I used a red, costume satin from Joann's with a 40% off coupon and my military discount.  The pattern told me to line it, underline it and interface it.  I thought it was a little bit overkill, especially since I will be wearing a shirt underneath the corset and am not needing this corset to literally 'hold me in'.  Therefore, I didn't underline it.  

Petite Alterations / SBA
This pattern has different pieces for A/B, C and D bust sizes.  The A/B cup was too big, so I shaved a bit off the center front's busty area to compensate and it fits perfectly.  The next time I make it, I will probably cut of the top and have the corset cover only my torso.  I did have to shorten the torso of the pattern to make it petite.  If you mess with the torso, make sure to reposition the eyelet placement

I opted to bone only the two seams in the front of the bodice.  I wanted the boning to stiffen out the bust, but not add bulk to the sides.  This didn't end up working too well once I laced it up so I added in the rest of the recommended boning.

Cheap Satin is a Beast!
Those of you who have sewn with satin know that it is no cake walk.  I serged the edges of most of the pattern pieces just after cutting out because I was suspicious of how quickly the edges would fray.  The serger ended up eating some of the edges so I had to make do with Fray-Check.  The satin was finicky and produced some runs after I sewed seams (with a sharp needle) but it's just a costume so I didn't fret. 

Other Tips
I pieced the corset front together with the interfacing attached, then sewed my lining, right sides together.  Because this will be one of the first reviews of this pattern, I want to stress that when you complete this step, do not just leave a little hole so you can turn the whole thing out (as the pattern suggests).  Instead, leave a hole twice as big on the bottom and avoid literally fighting to get the fabric with the boning turned right sides out. 

I added some trim to the top all the way around, then attached my back band with eyelets.  The eyelets weren't hard to put on, just time-consuming.  I don't like that Dritz sells them in packs of 12 and I needed 16, so I had to buy a second pack.  The sandwiched fabric between the eyelets frayed after I had worn it a few times, causing some eyelets to fall off.  I had to make a patch and replace 2 eyelets.  I fray checked the rest but I don't know how long it will hold.  Conclusion: the back band needs to be thicker in order not to budge between the eyelets.  I would underline and interface the back band next time to make it thicker.

Most of the problems I had with this project had to do with the satin being difficult to work with.  The other problems occurred because I didn't underline the corset.  Overall, I'm very pleased with the finished product.  The fit, especially around the bust is perfect.  I will use this pattern again the next time I make a corset.  

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